The last line of “The Body,” the short story by Stephen King that would be adapted into the excellent movie “Stand By Me,” has the narrator, Gordie Lachance, say “I never had any friends later on like the ones I had when I was 12. Jesus, did you? A harrowing, emotional set of lines, especially after the time you spent with Gordie and his friends throughout the story.
Yet, I never quite had to experience it on a literal level in my life. All my closest friends that I had back then are still with me to this day. When I lived in Portland for a decade, nearly all of my childhood friends somehow ended up down there with me after our collegiate years had ended. They are still there and my wife and I moved back up to North Idaho to be with family (and extort them for free childcare) a few years back.
But one of my closest, dearest, and earliest friendships was with the myth, the man, the legend Andrew Galloway. After meeting in kindergarten, we were inseparable. A smooshed, stern face on a child, broken often by goofy laughter under cinnamon hair; a lanky boy like myself with a drive to be outside more often than we were in. I was at his place, we were at mine, we were at another house with even more of us little goblins with only one goal: get away with everything we ever wanted to do, and do it without getting a rise out of the parental figures.
And by god, we were good at it.
Bringing back “The Body,” I was the Gordie Lachance of the group: I was the fourth child, and with that brought out an insecurity with a penchant to reserve myself into my room, where I would make up stories to put down on paper through word or drawing, relying deeply on my friends – especially the closest of my friends – to protect me, lead me in the right direction, and provide support for whatever else was going on in my life. I had my Vern, and I definitely had my Teddy.
But Andrew was my Chris Chambers. Not for Chris’ familial or financial situation (other than having two older brothers that would definitely keep him in check), but for the fact that he was the only one that I could really rely on. He was rough, tough, and always had the right answer in a situation even if he could have a hot head. And along with my father and my high school English teacher Paul Bonnell, Andrew (though the same age as me) will always get credit for shaping me into the man that I have become today.
We always had a solid relationship but of course – as is usual between old friends – there was a period of a few years where drama, petulant conflicts about nothing and trying to figure out who we are compared to who we once were split us up. I was always a bit confused but accepting of the canyon between us, and always sided with the idea that all of it was worthless and the call to the woods would bring us back together.
Luckily, it did. After a late, convincing night with a flask of aquavit and reminiscing, we realized we are still just the same old lanky boys we always were, and soon enough we would be back among the trees, the dirt, the waters. Two years of planning, and a few of those plans falling through due to work and fatherhood, Andrew pulled into my driveway at 10 in the morning on a Tuesday after an early trip up to Bonners Ferry from his current homestead in St. Maries. I gave him a quick tour of my home with the new baby girl in my arms cooing for her mother, who quickly grabbed her to allow me to toss my pack into the back of Andrew’s rig, smooch her goodbye, and ride shotgun towards the Selkirks for three days and two nights of alpine lake fly fishing.
I felt guilty that I was leaving her behind with a nine week old and a recently quite rebellious five year old, but after a promise of a playground trip in Sandpoint and ice cream at the classic Dub’s if he helped around the house and acted well in the eyes of my wife the night before, I felt slightly better. But hope is a rushing river and that river can run dry. Fingers crossed, out of service and loading up at the trailhead up Trout Creek, Andrew and I began our four mile ascent up the mountains.
We huffed up the trail to the first Y, about three-quarters of a mile, and took our first breather of many to come. We were already breathing heavily, feeling the elevation gain in our legs as we put our packs down and drank some water. I immediately brought up the fact that I believed I had brought too much in my pack. Now, 15 or so years ago, while we were in our early20s and both wildland firefighters, hauling heavy packs along with heavy tools and chain saws up mountain trails such as this was a cakewalk. We could lower our head down to watch the trail, suck it up, and hoof it up any mountain without complaint and, most of the time, even becoming sore.
As we sat down at this first rest, we could see in each other’s eyes that we were not in that kind of shape anymore and that the trail only continued in the upward motion for the next three miles. At this moment, I almost blurted out that we should just cut left on the Y and head up to the Ball Lakes for some good cutthroat fishing, but I held my tongue.
We were here to dive deep into the Selkirks to fish for arctic grayling.
Ever since I heard that there was arctic grayling that Idaho Fish and Game stocked in Long Mountain Lake deep in the mountain range, I knew that one day I would have to make the trek and hook up on one. My opportunities to catch this odd sail-finned fish are mostly limited to this hike here or a trip up to Alaska where my sister is currently nestled in the wilds.
Idaho Fish and Game started stocking them in this lake at least 39 years ago as a means to provide angling diversity to the area – also stocking golden trout in Parker Lake for the same reasons – and honestly, it isn’t the worst idea. Especially with how careful they were to make sure that these non-native fish in the salmonidae family would not go out and infest the streams of rivers that house our native westslope cutthroat trout.
Unlike Idaho’s horrible ideas with no forethought in the past such as stocking invasive and aggressive brook trout in the rivers and streams throughout North Idaho to cater to folks of the east and provide unique angling opportunities while allowing the brookies to completely infest and dominate many of our pristine westslope cutthroat trout waters, Long Mountain Lake is a self-contained lake with no outlet, locking the arctic grayling in for good and providing avid fly fishers like myself a unique opportunity to go hook up on a fish that I normally don’t have much of an opportunity for.
We swung the packs back on, nodded to each other, and continued right at the Y to make our way up to Pyramid Pass. The well-beaten trail wound through the Engelmann spruce and sub-alpine fir like the creek that made occasional appearances as our feet pounded up the hills. Black-capped chickadees sung of cheeseburgers, a few downy woodpeckers could be heard drilling for grubs and beetles in the many snags of suffering timber, the mosquitos fed on us in the shade. Sawdust covered whole sections of the trail where a forest service member had recently cleaned off bundles of large blowdown from the string of violent windstorms we have had over the past few months.
We made it to the next Y, hanging the first and only left of the trail. At this point, we got our first section of sunshine beating down on us as we looked up at Pyramid Mountain. A few minutes later, we were resting on its pass.
In “The Body” after the infamous leech scene where Gordie attempts to pull a leech from his genitals and it bursts in his hand, causing him to faint, Teddy argued and fought the group to say they should take Gordie home and that this adventure was going too far. On top of this pass, our shoulders hurt, our legs were Jello, and we had the worst part of the hike in front of us. I was nearly the Teddy in our situation, about to say we should back track, we had gotten ourselves too far in the muck and we weren’t cut out for this anymore.
But, like Gordie when he recovers, I had a clear goal for this two night trip that we had embarked on: to catch a grayling with another underlying goal of continuing to get closer to one of my oldest friends.
To get us back to where we once were.
We had never been quitters, though I had been close, but I was with the guy who always egged me on to do something I was too afraid to do back when we were kids. From bike jumps over sprinklers, excursions into the woods to raid dead and unused junkyards in the North Idaho woods (luckily with no “Chopper! Sic balls!”), pulling unnecessary but hilarious pranks, and getting me to continue playing baseball after nearly killing me with a backswing in a game of backyard ball.
Andrew knew what I was capable of and how to give me the courage to do those things. He was hurting like I was but he was pushing on. So must I.
We dropped down Trail #7 to the trail junction for Trail #221 with its near-sheer 540 foot elevation gain where each step included a grunt from both of us, a new body part to be sore, and another thought of why have I never thought about purchasing a mule for moments like this?
After an embarrassing number of breaks heading up to Parker ridge, we were soon on top overlooking the Selkirk canyons on either side of us. From here we spotted Russell Ridge, Parker Peak, Long Mountain Peak, Pyramid Peak, Smith Peak, Fisher Peak, the Boundary County High Point and the rest of the gang. A pika or two chewed us out, a blackbilled magpie scolded us for being too close to a nest. But down below, 300 feet below us, were the pristine, clear waters of Long Mountain Lake where the arctic grayling called for us in their shimmering scales and iridescent coloring.
A fish so willing to take a dry fly, something we believed would be easy to catch. Two days of tight lines and fish in the net.
But what we came to find was the most technical fishing for eight-inch fish in an alpine lake that I have ever seen or heard of, and a severe lack of arctic grayling.
We descended the trail to Long Mountain Lake, shining like a great beacon of hope and prosperity with its glassy blue-green waters broken up by trout feeding, rimmed by large granite outcrops that dropped off towards a canyon lined with the Selkirks that acted like a frame to the view of British Columbia to the north. We tramped through snow and bushwhacked our way through the forest towards the granite platform that we would use as our camp for the two nights we planned to stay.
Patches of glacier lily (erythronium grandifloram to the Latin, maxa to the Ktunaxa) and white mountain heather (cassiope mertensiana) covered the area of soil that cut through the large chunks of ancient magmatic rock in the small glacial cirque we had chosen as our home for the time being.
We arrived and dropped our packs, moving and turning and stretching and jumping to try to get our noodly legs back to normal.
Yet, there is something about water like this. All we wanted to do was relax, knowing that we did not have to carry our heavy pack again for a few days, sip some whiskey, make some coffee and some food, enjoy the immaculate view and upcoming sunset, and conk out hard in our sleeping bags to feel refreshed in the morning. But there is something about fly fishers when they see a rise in a river or on a lake.
We kind of just want to start throwing stuff at it. Before I even filtered some water into my nearly empty bottle, I rigged up my rod and tied on a #16 CDC caddis and threw it in the middle of the rises and waited. The water was very clear and you could see dozens of fish swimming around our section of the lake. One rise, two rise, three rise, four. But to my fly?
All the fish did was look.
A few would bump the fly and spook. One took my fly, and immediately spit it out before I could react. This was not how I imagined the trip. After about 30 minutes, a load of fish rejected the flies I presented to them, and missing strike after strike to the delicate small takes the fish were making, I was disappointed. Were we going to be skunked? Were we going to get skunked after that hike, and on something as easy to fish as a stocked alpine lake?
My stomach was grumbling, and I am sure that Andrew’s was as well. It was dinner time. It was filling-up-my-water time to not get myself lost in dehydration. It was whiskey time which would not help with my worry of dehydration, but it was a very necessary accessory to our relationship and our time up in these mountains.
The campfire was roaring, and we began the type of reminiscing that only happens with friends as old as us. It starts slowly with more recent stories of what has been going on which evolves into telling each other the same old funny stories about our childhood which then ends with us sharing stories that one of us didn’t remember until it was brought up at that moment.
Sometimes repressed memories, sometimes a much needed cacophony of nostalgia-riddled tales that sparks into one of three statements: “there should be a movie written about that story,” “I forgot about that, but boy am I glad to remember that” or “dear God, I forgot about that and I hope we have enough to drink so that I forget about that all over again.”
We have conversations that we wouldn’t want any other than us to hear in fear of them being disgusted, repulsed or our careers becoming jeopardized. But there is a comfort being around someone in which you can have conversations like that; unadulterated, unhinged conversation in which there is no one who can tell you what or what not to talk about, how to talk about such things, whether or not we are bad people.
We aren’t, I promise you, but in this day and age everyone tries to be much better than what they are; living, breathing mammals. Simple cogs in the flat wheel of time where only a very few humans alive this day will be remembered in100 years while the rest of us just live our life to our fullest for the time we had allotted. That is a beautiful thing.
As my camp version of thai peanut curry was cooking and subsequently being eaten, an osprey was fishing the lake. Numerous dives we watched, then I turned to Andrew and said, “at least he is as good a fisherman as we are tonight.”
The sun set over Parker Ridge and the temperature began to drop. The fire became a blaze with the addition of numerous very dead, nigh-bonsai sized sub-alpine firs as the conversation exploded into the joys and woes of parenthood. We talked of our same aged boys and compared and contrasted how they were. There were plenty of similarities, plenty of differences. It made me question that on any of the Boy Scout trips we did together with our dads almost 30 years ago, did they talk about us like this?
We were both their last children, so how did we compare to the others when they spoke about us around the campfire while we slept in our tents when it was our bedtime but not theirs? Are we walking in their footsteps now as we queued up anecdote and anecdote, complaint and congratulations over and over of our children? Are they proud of how we turned out, and will we be proud of how our children turn out? This fluster of thoughts stayed in my head as the conversation shifted once again to whether or not I could come down to their property in St. Maries this fall to pick fruit from their trees, shoot some turkeys in their yard for my freezer at home, and fish the Joe in its prime and hopefully not get skunked like the last time I made the trip.
As the bottle emptied, so did our bladders and the day itself. After a hike like we had, it didn’t take too long until I drifted off, waiting for the songbird alarm in the morning and hoping that the rising fish would start to be a bit less picky.
6:30 a.m. came around and I woke in a haze of whiskey delusion and fuzzy dreams.
Andrew, over the sound of a boiling-over pot of coffee, told me he had informed me about ten minutes after I had begun the nightly log-sawing that he had nudged me awake because a chipmunk or pika was crawling, scratching, and trying to loot my bag. He also informed me of the expletive filled, half-asleep primal yell I gave that rodent as I kicked the side of the tent before I continued working on the log.
After a good laugh shared, we both attempted to rub the extreme soreness out of our shoulders. After coffee from the kuksa, answering the call of nature a few times and filtering more water into our water bottles, we grabbed our rods and hit the water.
The fish were rising but we were not sure what they were feeding on just yet.
This early in the year, there were no good active hatches of mayflies or stoneflies to rely on, and whatever the little guys were feasting on was a mystery in our eyes. Duns, gnats, mosquitos. All were snubbed by the pretentious, picky fish and I began to make my way around the south shore of the lake. Andrew went to the right, and after about ten minutes, I heard him say something in an echo. I drew my eyes towards him and his bent rod, and was able to catch the next thing he yelled …
“Net!”
I made my way over there, net in hand because the dolt had forgotten his – or he had such little faith in the morning after the skunking last night that he didn’t find it necessary – and climbed down the granite to the small platform he was on. I netted it and stared dumbfounded at what lay in it.
An eight-inch rainbow trout, vibrant colors nearly neon with very faded par marks.
I wet my hands and let it go. This is not what we were expecting. We were expecting grayling, and grayling only. Days later, I would look up the stocking records and find out that in 2024, the lake had been stocked with 900 rainbow trout fry and boy, they had flourished. As we watched the rises across the lake, it was obvious that they were trout feeds. It was a beautiful fish, and so many of them were hungry, but disappointment hit us hard believing now that our grayling trip would turn into a trout trip.
But the show must go on.
The fish had taken a #10 Crowe Beetle. I had not packed for that. I had ants though, and plenty of them. I ran back to my rod and switched out the Hudson Caddis I had been trying, the eighth fly of the trip so far to be rejected. I put on one of my numerous ants. It was small, a #18 black ant with a sparse shiny hackle and a purple hotspot.
They were feeding in the shallows in all sorts of ways. Jumping eats like they were eating emergers, sips like they were dries, and darting eats underwater like they were chasing nymphs. The sun was high and the water clear, and these trout were spooked by everything. It was sight fishing, but the strategy was almost like blindcasting 20 feet away and hoping that the fish would swim in your fly’s direction. And most of the time, it would work. They didn’t like the size of my ant, which led to them poking it and running, but I sized up and up until I finally got a take with a #12 crippled ant pattern I tie for the creeks up here (which I should have started with in the first place considering they had been taking a #10 beetle).
A trout darted from the bank and took it, running out towards the middle of the lake after the hook up. This way and that, a jump. I have never had such a small trout fight like this one. I heard a cheer from the other bank as Andrew watched me fight the trout and, with pure comedic timing, the trout jumped one more time and spit the fly.
This is about the time that I began having a feeling I don’t experience too often while fly fishing: frustration.
Sure, I get frustrated when I donate a fly to a branch 15 feet up a tree or when I foul hook a fish. But losing a fish? Not too often.
A wise woman once told me that she rarely remembers the fish she caught but she sure as hell remembers many of the fish she failed to land in the net. It’s true. The biggest rainbow I have ever hooked up with on the Kootenai last year. a three or more pound bass out of one of the local lakes a few years back (the thing must have been 15 years old in our cold waters).
But it wasn’t about not landing this trout I hooked up with. It felt something like competition in a way. When it comes to sports and video games and other follies, Andrew and I have always kept a competitive spirit between us, and after decades, he was clearly in the lead. When it comes to fishing though? Not really. On my trip down to the St. Joe with him two years ago, where I famously skunked out and he caught one, where afterwards on my way back north I stopped by the North Fork of the Coeur d’Alene for a quick cast or two and landed a nice 17” cutthroat but failed to take a clear picture with my wet-wading drowned cellphone … there was a bit of jealousy. I really didn’t want to go through that again.
Yet, I knew what the fish were eating, and they were all still feeding. It was early in the day still, and we weren’t leaving until the next day. After working the waters for another 20 minutes, I hooked up again and this time the trout made it to my net. Not nearly the size of Andrew’s first trout, the little guy was about seven inches but so full of color and life.
I mentioned that the trout up there were picky, but let me put it into perspective. In the morning, there was a rise every five seconds or so. All hungry trout, picking whatever they find off the film of the water.
I am not a poor fly caster; I have fished for picky trout in the St. Joe, the Coeur d’Alene, the Kootenai, the Moyie, the Deschutes, the Zigzag. Fast, slow, or perfect waters. I have never seen so many trout disregard my presentation or my flies, especially young trout with their parr marks and their aggressive feeding patterns.
Yet, the day was the type that made you question if you were living the right way. Sure, I was up there on the mountain now, fishing for finicky young trout and hunting what had become the quite elusive arctic grayling. The sun was beating down but the late June weather kept the temperature at a reasonable 75 degrees. I had a long shoreline surrounding 2.6 acres of gorgeous deep blue alpine waters.
The birds were singing, the pikas chattering, the chipmunks attempting to raid our camp. But soon we would be heading back down the mountain, driving towards town to rejoin our families, our jobs, our responsibilities. For a good 24-hours, we didn’t have to think of that. Yet we did. We talked about it all. There is a part of me that wants to forget all that, to spend summers on the mountain creeks and winters in an A-frame cabin attempting to make a little more than spit off of writing and all that brings with it, dedicating my life to conservation, teaching, to sharing what little knowledge I have of the world and learning from others about the rest of it.
But that idea easily gets trumped by my family life. I wake up each morning in a haze, stretching out in bed and laying there before I remember, “oh, yeah, I have kids.” Getting up to make them breakfast and rushing them off to school or attempting to keep them entertained for another day. I love it and I love them – don’t get me wrong –but along the shores of Long Mountain Lake, I realized that I just don’t have all the time that I would want to go out and fish.
It reminds me of an old story that I heard once. A young father is out on a fishing trip with his friends, and nearing the end of the day, they crowd into a group cabin on the edge of a lake shared by a set of older men out there to do the same thing. The younger guys are drinking their beer and telling of their successes from the river that day. The young men become a bit solemn, and one says, “with the little ones at home, I just don’t have the time to fish much anymore.”
One of the older gentlemen turns in his chair, sips from a glass of whiskey and says: “I remember those days. My two boys grew up well. They went to college; started their careers. They are all out of the house. Hell, I don’t even get a chance to talk with them much anymore. When I think about them at three and six, I start to get a little teary eyed … I have too much time to go fishing nowadays.”
Andrew and I spent the rest of the day circling the lake, missing strikes and occasionally hooking into our small, feisty rainbow trout. I fished dry flies, I fished deep with my sinking line and a nymph, I even pulled a small leech pattern through this leech-barren lake. I caught fish on all of them, but all trout.
Where were the grayling? Did the rainbow trout introduction two years ago wipe out over two decades of arctic grayling? I even considered that maybe we stumbled upon the wrong lake even though we knew for a fact we didn’t.
It was now dinner time. The sun had started descending past Parker Ridge while it still lit up the Purcells across the valley behind us. We tallied out the trout caught for the day. I had eight and Andrew had five. What we thought would be a raucous day full of pulling dry fly loving grayling out of these waters turned into a day of tough fishing for picky, small trout. But it wasn’t all bad. We didn’t get skunked, and the trout themselves were absolutely full of beautifully vibrant coloration you can really only find up in the alpine lakes such as this.
As we cooked dinner, the osprey slammed the water again. It flew over us, and his talons squeezed around a decent sized trout as it flew north. Guess we all got a bit lucky on this day.
Dusk was creeping in, the water we could see looked still, the temperatures were beginning to drop. I decided to make my way down to the edge of the granite to watch for any movement. I still needed a grayling. I had to have one, and I still believed they were in here. I looked at the water and quickly called Andrew over. Dozens of strange feeds were going on. It was as if it was raining upwards from under the water; the film slightly being pushed and as it dropped back down, a parade of bubbles filled the space.
You could watch the fish eat like this, move another foot and eat again all around our side of the lake from the shore to 20 feet out. I had never seen anything like it.
I ran and grabbed my rod and quickly cast an ant pattern out next to one of the dimples. Within a second, my fly was gone. I didn’t necessarily see the eat. Moreso, it seemed like it just disappeared. I set my hook, and began to pull in. I hopped down the granite wall, hoping I wouldn’t fall in, and netted the fish.
An arctic grayling. Finally.
It was small, five inches or under, but it was what I wanted for months. It is why we huffed our way up the trail to get here. It is why Andrew and I took this trip. It is why I fish. A hunt for a specific thing, whether that thing is physical or metaphysical. A true quest for a holy grayling. The small god that I often talk about.
Andrew had never seen a grayling before, in person or picture. I wet my hands and lifted the small, nearly crystalline body out of my net and held it in my hand as I spread out its dramatic sail of a dorsal fine, spotted with iridescent dots of red and shimmering in the early evening glow. Andrew started to turn on his phone to snap a photograph. I looked up at him as he said, “that’s an awesome fish.”
I felt the fish slip from my palm and land back into the water as Andrew snapped a picture of my face, mid-realization with the ripples in the water leaving their origin point as my soul had left my body.
We quickly fished for more as they continued to eat. They were the least spooky fish out there so to guarantee a strike, you cast your fly right on their head. They didn’t get spooked by the line hitting the water above them. We both had numerous takes, but no successful hookups or lands after that first fish.
Yet, I had done it. The whole point of my trip up there had been completed. A quest fulfilled. I apologized to Andrew for him not landing one of them, he apologized for not getting the picture soon enough. But I let him know that it was on brand for one of our fishing trips. We always get done what we wanted to get done, but there is always one major slip up. And it still makes for a good story, and one of the most memorable catches of my life.
Though it was small, the journey to that fish with the blood, sweat, and sheer luck of landing the fish I came all the way up there for in the twilight hour of our trip, this fish will be locked away in my castle of memories for the rest of my life.
That night, we got hammered by an unexpected thunderstorm and it was Andrew’s turn to wake up in a ridiculous manner as he woke up mid-snore to a thundercrash right above us with a “what in the hell was that!?” and we fell asleep again, hoping that our rainfly would stay put and the snag above us wouldn’t fall.
We woke in the morning with a feeling of accomplishment for what we had done up at Long Mountain Lake, and a feeling of dread for the hike back now that we were still sore, poorly rested, covered in mosquitos and had quite the hill to climb to get out. But it was all downhill from there. He drove me home, we said our goodbyes, and before I even got inside to hug and kiss my wife and baby daughter, I had already begun planning our next trip.