Bakkebu

  1. Not Far From Home

    We arrived in Gardermoan,

    the security greeted me god morgen

    and he told me that Standal was quite the Norwegian name.

    I answered that we were here to visit family,

    he smiled,

    stamped the passport.

    We grabbed our bags and were out the door.

    Sissel and Stefan picked us up from the airport

    and we ate dinner with them and their two children.

    Meatballs and gravy thick with brunost,

    creamed cabbage and bread and salad.

    They let us bathe

    and I nearly flooded their bathroom because I could not understand

    the design of their showers

    with the glass walls, and a door

    that went to the floor without a lip to stop the water

    from escaping.

    They drove us into the city to our AirBnB

    on Huitfeldts gate, up the road from Aker Brygge.

    There was a bakery nearby that made the best ost og skinke

    in Norway, and I won't let anyone contest that.

    No way.

    We grab two with coffee and sit at the pond

    with the fountain spray high and the mass of mallards

    at Slottet, and I dream of Haakon

    and how he would do the same

    though he didn't.

    Not like we did.

    From here, I walked the docks around the water

    With Rachel and our morning over the fjord.

    We walked the Tjuvholmen Sculpture Park

    along with Franz West, and Gormley

    and Kapoor near the shore.

    We were always there before the tourists

    and the locals that were at work,

    but the city still moved.

    We had been to New York, and we had been to Boston

    but Oslo has a different speed. Something faster.

    Fast across streets.

    Fast into 7/11's and fast out of Jokers.

    It moved fast across roundabouts and intersections,

    and it moved fast past tragedies,

    and about mass shootings.

    About that crazy fuck in 2011

    who car bombed downtown

    killing eight and injuring others

    only to wash up on the Utøya shore

    opening fire and killing 69 more

    innocent men, women, especially children.

    The people did care, and they do care

    and God bless, it seems like they do not dwell and have moved on

    but that should be harder in a country where it is more rare than where I'm from.

2. Rental Car

We had driven from Oslo to Valdres three days later
And it was like a dream.
A small, cramped two lane winding
with the flowing Etna along the E16.
We made our way over passes.
We made our way through valleys.
We made our way to Bakkebu.

3. Home Life
It's 2:34 AM in Fagernes, Norway
and outside the Cabin Bakkebu,
the rain still falls and the creek next to the outhouse south of our bed
rushes harder over the roads and the rocks and the bends.
Rachel and I would spend our nights playing rummy and tiddlywinks.
However
it was not called tiddlywinks
but for the life of me I cannot remember the game's name.
There were no squidgers to be used,
and rather than a pot, the objective
was a target in part of the box that housed the game.
We couldn't read the instructions on the bottom of the box,
but Rachel glowed beautiful in the firelight
with her perfectly imperfect skin
and unwashed blonde hair
as she attempted to pronounce the Norwegian.
There was no way for us to know if techniques like a squop
would carry over into this game we were collectively coming up with
but possibly playing one hundred percent correctly.
That decades old wood-burning furnace that lit Rachel up radiantly
kept us warm in the cold damp nights
as did the old Rødningen family blankets stacked on top of an old wooden chair.
All of this in Rune's passed down cabin that is usually occupied by him and Tone,
his wife, and their two beautiful girls,
Olida and Etal.
They made us dinner that first night.
Hawaiian pizza with condiments like ketchup and salad dressing
and they gave us cold soda and carbonated water from their Soda Stream.
They gave us conversations.
And we answered questions about the States,
and they answered questions we had about their home.
Rune told us about how out in the country,
in Valdres
in Fagernes
that to the city folk, they were what you would call rednecks.
I let him know that from our small town,
we were considered hicks too.
They took us through mountain roads in a downpour,
our gas floored to keep up,
and they handed us keys to their cabin named Bakkebu
Where we stayed for four days and three nights.

4. A Severe Lack of Leg Room

It's 2:36 AM and the Europlug Type C adapter we bought at a 7/11
hums loud in my ear, as I try to sleep, like the engines of the Boeing 777
that we took overseas from SeaTac airport.
But instead of sleeping I watched The Day the Earth Stood Still,
the 1951 version,
one of my favorite movies
with one ear pod of the worst headphones that we have ever owned
(thank you, Norwegian Air).

There must be security for all
Or no one is secure.

Outside the window, the rain still ticks on the glass
and this foreign place continues to push on the walls of this cabin.
Valdres,
mountains around here spit when it rains.
Where there is no waterfall, there will be one tomorrow.
Rune told us on a tour of the area that South is the way the water flows.
The cardinal in Valdres is deemed incorrect it seems
and I found out here that I was too.
I miss home,
My apartment in Portland or my childhood house in Bonners Ferry,
but I feel more at home at Bakkebu these days
than I do anywhere else anyway.
Tomorrow, we will say our goodbyes as we load up our Toyota.
I will shake Rune's hand
and give a hug to Tone and Olida and Etal.
Etal.
Rachel called her Elda for the couple days we spent with them.
“And what do you think of this, Elda?”
“Elda, what type of things do you like to do?”
And she was never corrected.
And they never seemed bothered.
And now we have a name for our daughter.


5. The Worst Place in Norway
a. Tourists

Aurlandsfjord came
but not before we explored the beautiful little European town
while our vehicle was stuck in construction waiting to go up Bjørgavegen,
A tight, twisting two lane road disguised as only one.
We ate pizza bagels and cinnamon rolls from the SPAR Aurland
on a dock at a picnic table at the edge of Aurlandsfjord.

One could argue that Flåm would be the tourist's high point
with its picturesque and classic Norwegian high fjord walls
and a deep, hidden small town charm.
It has its valleys that opened up for us after we got drunk at the brewery
then stumbled into the Coop Marked for more beer
and back to our campground west of there
where we drank beers under a gazebo outside the laundry room
with a German couple
and the pouring rain.
That night in Flåm is one I will not forget;
flooded tents and a valley that changes drastically when wet.


But the day before this,
after the picnic table,
the Bjørgavegen opened after four hours of eager delay
and we camped on Prest above Stegastein and Aurlandsvangen.
Our tent sat above the cairn,
above 1300 meters.
The water rest calm below us as we watched the clouds roll in
and the wind began to pick up.

b. Tall Tales; Or How She Taught Me to Love the Fjord
Lay me down here
among and under the stars
before I float with you over our personal myth.
The alabaster skin of our own Cardiff Giant.
The curves and subtleties of our Fiji Mermaid
The tall gabbro walls of Prest.
I can feel it all under me
as she lays there in the midnight moonlight.

6. Til Sidst
a. Bryggen Bergen Buildings

Here we are again
among the sound of accordion
whose chords of disappointment
ring out under the Bryggen Bergen Buildings
Surrounded by the whores and virgins,
the mortals and gods,
the Vikings and tourists
and the king cod.
Yes, down here at Bryggen Bergen
with all of it's goddamn rain
that, without a doubt,
always gets the last word in.

b. The high houses look at one another with crystal eyes”
“de himmelhoye husene star og undrer seg pa om de er guder”.
Rolf Jacobsen wrote this
and he was right.
These houses, high as the sky,
may wonder if they are gods.
I know that they are.
8:34 post meridiem on this fall evening
they are still up there in the hills
in the cold Norwegian dark,
high above where we drink our Hansa pilsners
on these stools against the bar at Pingvinen
and masses of people are out for dinner, sitting
at the tables with candles, cutlery, bottles of wine.
A communion
at Pingvinen,
where the bartender looked at us strange for ordering only ost og
flatbrød like we were starved
for cash
starved
of kroner
But plenty of it was still in my pocket
and all we were starved of
was conversation.

c. Sonett
Grace appears most purely in that human form which either has no consciousness or an infinite consciousness.” -Heinrich von Kleist, “On the Marionette Theatre
Hark! a bastion of hope under a guise
as a country that would bring us progress
in the acceptance of our change; abscised!
In Oslo where each chat felt like trespass
to the valley district of Fagernes
glory to He with his dark blue eyes of Christ.
Time with Eve, bed down deep in Valdres.
My Broken jar, her mind aligned with Kleist.
Has this land instilled in me a theist?
Of Her, in Bryggen, amongst the Buskers
and fish mongers; gravlax, bread, cream cheese spiced
sat down near the tchotcke-hocking hucksters.
And we'll go home, cheerful and voluble
without the serenity of Bakkebu.

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